While the new Michelin Guide selections for Estonia do include locations across the country, the majority of award winners are in the capital, which poses some questions about the awards' criteria and the culinary scene across the country.
The high reputation of these awards is well known; but what are the qualities an eating establishment must possess to win them? For 180° by Matthias Diether (at Noblessner Marina) and NOA Restoran (at NOA Chef's Hall), the Michelin star rated Tallinn restaurants, were evaluated based on five criteria, as explained by Michelin Guide. These are “the quality of the ingredients…the mastery of culinary techniques… the harmony of flavours… the personality of the chef as expressed in the dishes… consistency across the entire menu and over time…” Receiving one star means that both of these restaurants possess “high quality cooking, worth a stop.”
Conversely, considerations for giving a Green Star include “the provenance of the ingredients; the use of seasonal produce; the restaurant’s environmental footprint; food waste systems; general waste disposal and recycling; resource management; and the communication between the team and the guests about the restaurant’s sustainable approach,” as outlined by Michelin Guide. Fotografiska in Tallinn and Põhjaka Manor in central Järva County received this honour.
The Bib Gourmand title is a reference to Bibendum, the Michelin Group's mascot made of tires, also known as the Michelin Man. This title “highlights good quality cooking at a great price,” recognized to be a three-course meal at 36 Euros. The locations that fulfilled this were Fellin (in Viljandi), Härg, Lore Bistroo, Mantel ja Korsten, and NOA.
Any evaluation of food is subjective. A restaurant may hold sentimental value for one diner but be a place to completely avoid for another. Everyone has different tastes. Still, the legacy of the Michelin Guide is 122 years deep.
The guide was initially created in 1900 as a way for the Michelin brothers, Andre and Edouard, to promote the use of automobiles in France, and therefore, the tires they manufactured. In the first 26 years, convenient places to fix or fuel up your car, along with dining spots and accommodation, were pinpointed across France. Yet, awarding stars was not part of the scope of the guide in this era. Nowadays, the guide has exploded to over 25 countries, and is a tastemaker when it comes to fine dining. So much so that, as is frequently cited, some restaurants have asked for stars to be removed from their restaurants because they feel it applies too much pressure on the creativity of their chefs and staff. When perfectionism runs rampant, this attention could be unwanted.
What is the reason that Estonia has not received a star before, then? Is the country only just becoming noticed gastronomically? Is the traditional food of Estonia, in contrast to western European haute cuisine, not worthy of attention? The Bib Gourmand and Michelin stars awarded elsewhere in the world negate this hypothesis.
Notably, as of June 2022, not one single Canadian restaurant has been awarded with a Michelin star. This further clouds up the reasoning behind it all. Toronto and Montréal alone are famous for their fabulous food scenes. The exciting news is that in the autumn of 2022, Toronto, Canada will have its own guide. Let's hope the coverage stretches even further soon.
This is not all said to criticize Michelin, or to otherwise be sycophantic about the brand. Nonetheless, a household name giving recognition like this will open up opportunities for restaurants.
All those interested in visiting these locations can view them on the Michelin Guide website or through their free iOS and Android apps.
