Canada has the longest in the world, at 243,042 kilometres, “including the mainland coast and coasts of offshore islands” as documented by Statistics Canada. Clearly, map projections distort our sense of size.
As Estonians have watched lained (waves) crash upon their famous, winding coastline for generations, it would make sense that they might go out, try to ride them, and have some fun on the water, right? The reality is, there are a number of factors that get in the way of this. Larger waves that are more conducive for rides are blocked by those equally-famous islands. As SurferToday.com states, “Most of Estonia is blocked from the bigger SW-W swells by its own Hiiumaa and Saaremaa islands.”
Where one can find waves, you won't always be rewarded. Travel company Nomad Surfers says “The surf conditions are usually inconsistent in summer, freezing in winter and with shallow coastal waters…The best time to surf in Estonia is also the coldest during autumn and winter. During summer the Baltic Sea is usually calm and it’s rare to have any decent sized waves that can be ridden.”
On top of this, to be a surfer, you have to have a bit of proclivity for stunts and adrenaline-inducing activities. Still, Estonians and visiting surfers have made much out of what's available. Prepare your hooded märgülikond (wetsuit) and pull on your gloves and boots as we share some of Estonia's favourite places for surface water sports.
Ristna: Ristna sits at the end of Hiiumaa's 21 kilometre long Kõpu poolsar (peninsula), looking westward to the Baltic Sea. This is also where the famed Kõpu tuletorn (lighthouse) is located.
With its exposure to the full force of the Baltic Sea, Ristna has drawn water sports enthusiasts from abroad. Among these are Latvian windsurfers Jurgis Vitols and Krisjanis Tutans, who paid a visit there at the end of October 2014. Vitols said “mother nature cherished us with 4 amazing days in a row of wind and waves… It doesn’t matter, if it’s sunny, rainy, cloudy, hot or cold. When you get yourselves in these waves you don’t think about cold feet, freezing fingers or gloves that can disturb your fun. Only thing that matters is the smile you get in these waves. Conditions got better and better every day.”
Indeed, all those who want to ride waves must be quite patient in trying in different conditions until the best set of waves comes along. Seeing the video they filmed of their time in Ristna, the waves were moderately sized, but ripped by at quite a high speed, and with a lot of churning, sending Tutans and Vitols both flying into the sky. Occasionally, they crashed back down hard in defeat. Other times, they landed cleanly on the back of a wave's crest.
You can get your thrills on Hiiumaa, but Windsurfing brand CONTINENTSEVEN warns that here, “Rocks form the [waves] and you need a decent level to ride the waves.”
Stroomi Beach: If you've just flown into Tallinn and are eager to get to the water, you don't have to go far. With proximity being a motivating factor, Stroomi Beach gets a lot of mention among surfer circles and those hunting for an under-the-radar Baltic surf session just a 20 minute drive from Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport. Even better, Stroomi Beach's conditions aren't vicious. The width and enclosed quality of the cove that reaches down to Stroomi Beach produces waves that are comfortable for learning and practice surfing as a novice.
SurferToday.com notes that “there are a few interesting west-facing spots that will produce waves during W gales. These near-miracle wind swells are tracked on a regular basis by a growing community of Estonian surfers who rarely miss a golden chance to hit the waves.”
On the other side of this cove, driving west, is Kakumäe Beach, a spot with high winds that will satisfy all those with windsurfing or kitesurfing rigs. Don't forget to make a pit-stop at Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum (the Estonian Open Air Museum) for a hands-on, multi-sensory Estonian history lesson.
Vääna-Jõesuu Beach: 25 minutesaway from Kakumäe Beach, if you were to make a multi-day tour of these places, is Vääna-Jõesuu Beach, situated a bit further west in Harju County. This spot is totally open to the Baltic Sea, with no obstructions. Thus, compared to elsewhere in Estonia, you will get the most opportunities to surf here each year. Sometimes you'll luck out and pick up a large wave due to the depth of the water.
This is also good choice for those who have family and friends in tow who don't want to get into board sports. The reason is because it's also a spacious sandy beach for games, sunbathing, and going for a leisurely swim. A short drive away, it's also possible to visit the Arvo Pärdi Keskus, where visitors can learn about Arvo Pärt's life and compositions, as well as marvelling at the beautiful integration of buildings within a forest setting.
If you want to try sports like stand-up paddleboarding and you're seeking a more relaxing time instead of waves for the likes of Laird Hamilton, then consider going out on the water in the summer. Likewise, more sheltered beaches on the other side of the islands will have calmer waters.
Also, whether you're very experienced or an absolute beginner, it's a great idea to get in touch with local surf clubs wherever you venture, so you can make friends with the locals, look after each other, and hear some of their tips and advice. Some clubs offer courses, too. Near Stroomi, there's Stroomi Surfiklubi. On Hiiumaa, there's Paope Surfiklubi. On Saaremaa, there's Mändjala Surf Club.
And at the time you go, you can find information on conditions for surf spots, such as Ristna on the island of Hiiumaa, by visiting surf-forecast.com .
Depending on where you go, you may get thrashed around, but it'll be a good workout, and there's no better way to immerse yourself in the force of the water.
