Tango’s origins borrow from African slave, Cuban, and Spanish influences. Early on, tango was popular only in working class neighbourhoods, even being used by bar and brothel owners to entice customers. When tango spread to Europe in 1900, the initial reaction to this sensual dance was one of scandal. However, it quickly grew in popularity in Paris, then London, Rome, and elsewhere.
Back in Argentina, its popularity ebbed and flowed depending upon economic and political conditions. In the 1950s, under the leadership of President Juan Perón, tango underwent a significant resurgence. Over the decades, many variants of tango have evolved, ranging from the traditional to nuevo tango with athletic moves similar to those seen in figure skating. In 2009, tango was conferred UNESCO Intangible Heritage status.
I was born in Argentina as a result of my parents’ escape to freedom after the Second World War. On my recent trip back to Argentina, I was fortunate to explore tango in various venues. Its influence is seen in tourist-oriented artwork in the colourful Boca neighbourhood. Here, restaurants continue to lure customers with tango dancers as free entertainment, while customers are expected to eat and drink. Throughout Buenos Aires, numerous restaurants and nightclubs also offer relatively expensive (more than $100 USD) dinner and tango shows, such as the popular El Querandí offering in the San Telmo district. These shows offer dinner, drinks, and a tango and singing show that usually lasts just over an hour.
Less expensive non-dinner options are also available with seating that is further from the stage. We also attended the tango show at the world-famous Café Tortoni for significantly less. À la carte eating at the cafe was a reasonable option. The smaller venue made for a more intimate setting with excellent photo opportunities.
“…in my opinion, the best tango experiences in Buenos Aires happen in the open air. One Saturday morning, street tango took place in front of a spectacular bank building on Calle Florida… My wife and I spent hours at Plaza Dorrego on two separate days, enjoying the dancing while downing a few refreshing lemonades.”
On the cruise that we took from Buenos Aires, a superb fort-five-minute tango duet was featured as part of the nightly entertainment. However, in my opinion, the best tango experiences in Buenos Aires happen in the open air. One Saturday morning, street tango took place in front of a spectacular bank building on Calle Florida, the famous shopping street. And finally, for open-air tango, Plaza Dorrego in the San Telmo district is superb.
Every day, tango dancers perform on mats that are sprinkled with talc powder to optimize the footing for the artists. I suspect that the nearby restaurants pay the dancers a small stipend, but tips from the onlookers are also welcomed, with the passing of a hat by all dancers. My wife and I spent hours at Plaza Dorrego on two separate days, enjoying the dancing while downing a few refreshing lemonades. As a bonus, we were able to engage with some of the dancers who generously shared with us insights into their art.
[See Peeter’s photos of this incredible tradition in his gallery below]
Photo gallery
