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On the Market: Upcycling the Past in Contemporary Fashion Design

When contemplating waste and pollution on a global scale, clothing is a major contributor. According to a study by the University of Waterloo, Canadians discard nearly 500 million kilograms of textiles every year, including clothing, shoes, and toys. Professor Olaf Weber, the co-author of the study, stated that “less than one [percent]” of discarded garments are recycled.

Environmental awareness advocates The Roundup indicated in March 2024 that the whole world produces 92 million tons of textile waste annually, with the comparison of one truckload being dumped in a landfill every second. This disturbing visualization could make one stop purchasing clothes; however, clothes are a consumer item that, at times, need to be thrown away due to wear and tear. Unlike more resilient products such as furniture, the frequent bodily and environmental contact of fabric wears down its materials. Socks, shirt collars and cuffs, tights, shoes, and athletic hats are especially vulnerable. But there is an encouraging amount of textiles that can be salvaged, both for repair and upcycling.

Among the forward-thinking people who are reimagining the use of old textiles is an Estonian fashion designer by the name of Marit Ilison, who uses colourful vintage wool blankets from the time of the Soviet Union to make coats for her “Longing for Sleep” collection. These scratchy blankets are well-known among people who lived during and just after the Soviet occupation of Estonia and other countries.

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