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Passing on the beauty and craftsmanship of Estonian folk dressmaking

In a splendid tribute to Estonian culture, a remarkable event unfolded over the weekend of June 16-18, 2023, in the Chicagoland area.

Photo: Sandra Urvak

“Kaaruspaelast Labajalavalsini,” an event that marked the First Ever Airing Out of Estonian Folk Dresses in North America, brought together an eclectic mix of craft enthusiasts, native Estonians, individuals with Estonian heritage, and inquisitive hobbyists.

This weekend affair spanned three days, offering a variety of experiences, including workshops, musical performances, graduation ceremonies, presentations by Chicago's Estonian Folk Dress Course graduates, and Chicago Estonian Folk Dance performances by Põhjanael. On Saturday evening, a traditional mid-summer solstice celebration complete with Estonia's village band Sirli, social games, delectable food, and a picturesque bonfire by the river, crowned the festivities. The last day of the event was spent in Chicago, where the uniqueness of Estonian folk dresses was presented to the people of Chicago and its visitors. With brochures in hand and Estonian talking points prepared, participants were ambassadors for the day, sharing the Estonian message.

Organized by the Estonian Cultural Society of Chicago in collaboration with MTÜ Rahvarõivas, this weekend-long celebration showcased the enduring importance of preserving and passing down Estonian craft traditions. The event was a testament to the deep-rooted connection between craftsmanship and cultural heritage.

The main inspiration behind organizing this grand event was to provide the Chicago Folk Dress Sewing Course students with a memorable graduation ceremony. Students Anu Slorah, Tiiu Kera, Merike Siismets, Maria Siismets, Leelo Linask, Janne Dombrowski (completed 3 sets), Ingrid Dombrowski, Rita Kopas, Sirje Press, Aive Rei (completed 2 sets), Liivika Koren, and Ille Sutt poured countless hours into researching, making, and perfecting their folk dress sets. Over the two-year program, they diligently learned via Zoom meetings with their teachers, connecting with their Estonian roots through their craft. Students came together from six different states, and their age group varied from 13 to 76.

It was not just a sewing class; it was a journey through time, an exploration of Estonian identity, and a labor of love.

Students were fortunate to be guided by the best craft masters like Anu Randmaa, Silja Nõu, Merli Mänd, Maret Lehis, Kadi Vingisaar, Anu Pink and Liis Luhamaa. Unfortunately, two teachers, Silja and Liis, couldn't join the trip, and their absence was deeply felt, especially Silja's, who had dedicated an extensive number of hours to ensure that the students mastered embroidery and other sewing techniques. Graduates received diplomas and encouragement to continue exploring the world of folk craft.

The Chicago Estonian Folk Dress Sewing Course started back in 2021. The first session of the course was designed around lectures addressing the history of how Estonian folk dress evolved throughout different eras and covered the characteristics of folk dresses worn in different parishes. The second part of the course was more practical and hands-on, where all students could learn the techniques and special nuances of making their own set of folk clothes. It was not just a sewing class; it was a journey through time, an exploration of Estonian identity, and a labor of love.

Photo: Sandra Urvak
Photo: Sandra Urvak

As we look back on the event, the emotional speeches and tears during the graduation ceremony made it clear that this occasion meant far more than just showcasing Estonian folk dresses. Bonds were formed between students, and participants gained a profound understanding of their heritage by delving into their family history while creating their folk dress sets. The course not only imparted sewing techniques but also instilled a deep appreciation for the artistry and effort involved in crafting these unique garments. 

The “Kaaruspaelast Labajalavalsini” event marked an exceptional tribute to Estonian folk culture, providing a platform for creativity, learning, and unity. With more than 160 participants throughout the event, it served as a testament to the enduring appeal of traditional crafts and the profound impact they have on connecting people to their heritage.

Ille Sutt 

The Chicago Estonian Folk Dress Sewing Course graduate 

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