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Thoughts on Melbourne’s ESTO 1988-89 (+ gallery)

As I remember it from some thirty-seven years ago, the Melbourne ESTO was a bold choice of location, the first time it was held away from North America or Sweden. Would it be able to attract enough worldwide travellers of Estonian heritage? Yes! It turned out to be a superb choice. The Estonian cultural heritage in Melbourne was strong, and ESTO provided many of us from overseas with a reason to visit a continent that would otherwise not be in our travel plans. Where else but down under could you indulge in the delicacies of a breakfast of fried bananas and marmite?

Photo: Valmar Kurol

Although time has dimmed detailed memories of the hot, steamy days of events, what still stands out today is the thorough planning that must have been involved for so many well-organized events. On the opening day, the huge outdoor amphitheatre had a welcome from Australian Sir Arvi Parbo, reportedly then the world’s most wealthy Estonian. Also on stage were the Estonian Boys’ Choir (RAMi Poistekoor) along with star Estonian musicians Alo Mattiisen and Ivo Linna. They had all been recent leading performers during Estonia’s Eestimaa Laul ‘88, a musical event that heralded Estonia’s independence movement. 

Overall event highlights for me were the social gatherings in the amphitheatre park area and various concerts, including an unforgettable cabaret act from Sweden. Being in the flag parade (rongikäik), marching through the streets of Melbourne and seeing all the buildings lined with their iconic cast iron balcony grilles, was thrilling. 

In addition to the variety of academic activities and entertainment on offer, it was a pleasure to meet so many people from all over the world, including the friendly Australians.

One of the last and most impressive events was the packed grand dinner and ball, which was held in a massive, multi-winged Victorian era hall, reeking of history. To complete the formal activities, the final gala concert was held in the Sydney Opera House. Being a keen photographer, I remember climbing on to lower parts of the famous clam-shelled roof, taking shots of the individual surface tiles and being surprised to see how nicked and broken some of them looked up close. This activity would likely be frowned upon today.

They say that people make the difference. In addition to the variety of academic activities and entertainment on offer, it was a pleasure to meet so many people from all over the world, including the friendly Australians. For me by far, the highlight of this ESTO was the presence of a lively contingent of homeland Estonians. This included a variety of top-level artists, entertainers, politicians, actors, writers and other professionals, many of them leaders of Estonia’s then nascent independence movement. How they managed to get there politically was unknown to me at the time. They had generally flown in via Singapore and this was my second experience dealing with homeland Estonians. 

Only a few months previously, Montrealers had hosted a concert by the Estonian Ellerhein Girls’ Choir, so I was marginally familiar with the winds of change occurring in Estonia that year. I spent my evenings in the ESTO bar chatting with many of them, not knowing at first who they were or what they did, hoisting more than a few brews with them. My newly-found party animal buddies turned out to be the likes of composers and musicians such as René Eespere, Lepo Sumera, Alo Mattiisen, Ivo Linna, writer Paul-Eerik Rummo, Mart Laar and others. These bar nights led to longer-lasting contacts with a number of them. 

Only a few years later, some began visits to Toronto for their independence movement activities and Montreal was a stop-over for their airline flights. Along with other members of the Montreal Estonian community, I had the honour and privilege of hosting them and getting the latest news of the day.

There’s a saying that if you remember it well, you probably weren’t there. I don’t know if this is true or not, but at least I’m very glad for the memories I retained of the wonderful Melbourne ESTO and its participants.

Valmar Kurol (Montreal)

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