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Independent breadwinner

Bread is a basic food in Estonia that no one skimps on and many, in fact, survive on. It accompanies almost every meal in all circumstances and often without butter or any other kind of spread. Sales of bread, which must not ever dip (lange) substantially, see a surge (tõus) around the anniversary of Estonian independence 24. veebruaril, when the hors d'oeuvres (suupisted) du jour are usually something on dark rye, such as kilu (sprats), heeringas, tursamaksasalat (cod liver salad)...

 


This pre-Estonian 95th Independence Day bread ad campaign of Eesti Pagar (Bakery) reads: "Musta leiva jõud" – THE POWER (strength) OF BLACK BREAD. In small print: "Nii raske, kui on Sinu töö, nii magus on Sinu leib." – Your bread is as sweet as your work is hard. In the background is a shirtless man kivi kangutamas (prying up a boulder), but the star, or power of dark rye bread embodied is the woman, a direct reference to Linda from the epic tale Kalevipoeg. The specific variety of bread being advertised is must vormileib – black loaf pan bread. Vorm ia also a mould, vormima = to mould. This as opposed to the loaf being shaped by hand and baked on the (open) oven floor – põranda/leib, "floor bread". Photo: Riina Kindlam
Photo: Riina Kindlam


It's always surprising to hear people in North America watching how much bread they eat, especially alongside a meal, because they're convinced it will result in unwanted weight gain. In Eesti you come to see bread in a whole new light, as a basic need and cornerstone.

Must-, hapu- or rukkileib – bread of the black, sour, dark rye variety is what fills you up, is good for your digestion and may well be the healthiest, most beneficial (kasulikum) part of a meal. Its reputation in this part of the world has been only positive – as a life force food source for centuries. Hence the expression “vanem kui leib“, to describe something that is “older than bread”; really ancient. And the order from your grandparents to kiss your piece of bread, should you happen to drop it.

 

As for portraying powerful Linda, Kalevipoeg's mother and widow of vana (old) Kalev, you may know that in Friedrich Reinhold Kreutzwald's epic poem, Linda wept for seven days and nights over her husband's death. Her tears created Ülemiste järv, situated in Tallinn, where to this day Linda kivi (Linda's boulder) can be found. She then prepared Kalev for his funeral and buried him 35 metres below the ground, constructing as his burial mound what is now known as the hill of Toompea, upon which today is seated the Estonian parliament and the seat of Government.

Jätku leiba! – May there always be enough bread!

Riina Kindlam, Tallinn

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