Now is the time to reconnect and give deep thought to this as we have suffered an enormous loss from inside the kitchen. Ülle Veltmann, our longtime Eesti Maja peakokk, baker, caterer, and everyone’s friend, was taken from us far too soon. This is a loss we will feel for many years to come. In a community built on the pillars of grit and a tireless work ethic, I can think of no one who worked as hard as Ülle. She was everywhere. It felt as though she was always in three places at once, cooking, teaching and feeding us all. She was a provider, and she was legendary.
When I was a young scout in laager at Kotkajärve she was the head cook (peakokk). Having a keen interest in food, I would peek into kitchen and hear the volunteers (mostly other moms) talking enthusiastically about Ülle’s ability to make pirukad “like a machine” and discussions of how she would be up 4 hours before anyone else casually preparing 5 or 6 fresh kringlid (braided sweetbreads) which needed to be dropped off at various locations around the GTA right away – but don’t worry, she’d be back before dinner prep begins! All of this on top of caring for her family.
A decade later, we would work together in the kitchen at Jõekääru Laste Suvekodu. Though so much time had gone by, the same hustle came with Ülle. She was catering, running two kitchens at two different camps and making extra pastries and pirukad to sell for camp fundraising. Always with a twinkle in her eye and a bit of good humour, she would continue to work – only to stop occasionally to offer shoulder massages or to share a glass of champagne with the köögirahvas (kitchen staff), a small reward for the seemingly never-ending work. There is nothing quite like a little sparkling wine, served in a 50-year-old melamine teacup shared around the kitchen counter with those friends. It was just such a special place to be. Ülle made everything better.
It’s hard to imagine life without her. Few are willing to do the work she did. Whether it was catering 3 different events on the same day or pumping out thousands of handmade pirukad for massive occasions like JK Jazz. Ülle produced delicious Estonian food on a scale that most would find unfathomable. We talked about it for years. It’s so rare to find someone who will commit to that level of service.
So, in her honour, I invite everyone to think about what really goes into the food we share. Take the time to make a homemade meal for your family, dust off Vanaema’s recipe box or go volunteer in one of the camp kitchens this summer if you can spare the time. I promise it’s a rewarding experience, a place to reconnect with the Estonian community and most certainly a way to feel close to the truly inspiring spirit of Ülle.
Aitäh, meie kallis köögiema.
